France-based active ingredients specialist Silab introduced a series of new anti-ageing ingredients at the ; Health & Beauty America show, held in New York City, 27-29 September.
Although the three ingredients tackle different aspects of skin ageing, they have been formulated with flexibility in mind making them suitable for a variety of skin care products.
Silab is responding to market demands for ingredients that tackle specific aspects of skin ageing, developing Elastonyl for anti-wrinkle and anti-stretch applications, Exfolactive as an exfoliant and Aquaphyline as a new concept for skin re-hydration.
Elastonyl has been developed to improve skin resistance and limit the appearance of striae – skin defects often associated with rapid gains in weight and most often linked to pregnancy. The company claims that the ingredient has been developed to protect and repair elastic and collagen tissue.
It specifically tackles degradation of elastic tissue by inhibiting expression of proteolytic enzymes, such as MMP-1, MMP-2 and cathepsin. This means that it favours the skin’s fibril network by stimulating the production of collagen and fibrillin.
Ultimately Silab says that Elastonyl improves skin microrelief, helping to restore tone and elasticity in both aged skin and stretched skin in a variety of skin care products.
Exfolactive has been developed as an exfoliating ingredient to help speed up the elimination of dead skin cells and stimulate the renewal process.
To develop this ingredient Silab says it opted for a biological strategy to help the skin restore its natural exfoliation process and regenerate new skin.
The ingredient is said to be rich in oligosaccharides from the Nopal plant, otherwise known as the prickly pear. This is achieved through the exfoliation of the corneocytes by boosting the acivity of Cathespin-D, Stratum Enzymes that activate cell renewal, Silab claims.
The result is said to be a more radiant complexion, while skin lines are less apparent.
Aquaphyline is rich in oligosaccharides derived from wild pansy plants, which in turn helps to regulate the epidermal hydration process by maintaining an equilibrium for the skin’s moisture irrigation and retention process.
This means that the ingredient aims to improve the water circulation from the dermis to the epidermis by stimulating the synthesis of aquaporins-3 and increasing the epidermal water binding capacity through the regulation of the skin’s endogenous hyaluronic acid synthesis.
The ingredient is best suited to intense hydration treatments for very dry skin or when it is exposed to very dry environments.
Together with these three new ingredients, Silab will be featuring its complete portfolio of active ingredients at the HBA show. As well as anti-ageing formulations, these include anti-allergy, hair growth, anti-oxidant and anti-sunburn ingredients.
source: NOVIS – http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com
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